Rome

From Borgo di Vagli we dropped off the rental car and took the train to Rome. I have to say I was sort of prepared not to like Rome, I had heard a lot of bad things about it. I thought I was going to be right when we arrived at the train station and decided to take the metro to our hotel. Aaron assured me it was only a 1 km walk to our hotel which I thought I could easily handle. Instead, it turned out to be almost a MILE and a half (BIG difference from a km), UPHILL, in the BLAZING sun while wheeling our bags. I was drenched in sweat and cursing Aaron under my breath. When we finally arrived at the hotel the nice lady at the front desk told us about the local train which had a stop literally around the corner from the hotel. I was mad we didn't know about it before, but glad we wouldn't have to make the trek from the metro every time we wanted to go into town. After a long nap and a shower, I decided to give Rome another chance.

Turns out, I loved it! I felt like Rome just had an energy of sorts and so much history and I really just loved it. That first afternoon we just took the train into town and walked around. We saw the Spanish Steps, threw a coin into the Trevi Fountain (it is supposed to mean you get to come back!), and shopped all evening. I loved all the people, and like I said, just the energy of the place, I can't describe it well with words. That first night we saw that around seven all the little restaraunts just drag tables out into the streets and onto the sidewalks to set up for dinner. Its pretty crazy but we ate at a little restaurant at a table literally in the road with a view of the Trevi Fountain. After dinner we watched street performers and walked around until late just people watching and having a blast.

The next day we did the Colosseum in the morning which was really cool, we had a podcast to give us some history too. We also did the Roman Forum which I loved (and made me wish I was teaching 10th graders Julius Caesar!) even though it was REALLY hot. We took a siesta in the afternoon and then went back into town to walk around the Vatican area and see it lit up at night. We got dinner at one of the street restaurants again but this time learned you don't want the table in the gutter!

Our last day in Rome we got up early to get in line for the Vatican museum which houses the Sistine Chapel. We had heard the lines were brutal so we were prepared but we got lucky and the line wasn't too long. The Vatican museum was really cool but the Sistine Chapel was the real reason to be there. It had recently been cleaned and the colors were SO vibrant and amazing and I just couldn't imagine Michealangelo standing on scaffolding and painting that, its crazy! After the Vatican Museum we did St. Peter's Basilica which was the most amazing church I have ever seen. The dome was amazing, the altar, I am just not even going to try to do it justice. I was in awe.

Our last night we did some more shopping and checked out some different piazzas and got dinner at a little bit of a nicer restaurant on one of the piazzas. It was a great night and we ended it by getting gelato (one last time!) and eating it on the Spanish Steps.

Rome was a great city and I think I could have easily spent a week or more there. It was a great way to end our trip. We headed home the next day, sad but excited to get back to our baby! I really hope that some day we can do it again.

Throwing my coin into the Trevi Fountain

The first McDonald's in Italy. It was SO fancy, and all I really wanted was a fountain drink (but they didn't know to put ice in it, well you can't win them all!)

Trevi Fountain at night

In the Colusseum

Colosseum

By Rome we were pretty sick of asking people to take our picture. We attempted the self portrait a number of times but its pretty hard with our big camera, I think that Aaron looks pained in every single one of these that we tried!

Me and my Gladiator

Vatican at night

The Sistine Chapel, doesn't even remotely do it justice

The dome at St. Peter's

The Pantheon

And that's it folks! Til next time! (I hope)

Tuscany

From Florence we rented a car (an awesome Fiat!) and drove to Tuscany. We were a little stressed that the car rental place didn't have a GPS for us but thankfully we really didn't have any problem getting around (once we figured out how to put the car into reverse-- no joke this took us about 10 min).

We drove from Florence first to San Gimignano which is this old town that still has standing towers from ancient feuding families. Although it isn't much more now than a tourist trap I really liked it, the old cobblestone streets, the walled city and the towers, I imagined the Capulets and Montagues and Romeo climbing to Juliette's window (ok, I'm an English teacher, what do you expect?). The town was really small so we just walked around for a while, got pizza for lunch, did some shopping and headed out.

The scenery while we drove was spectacular. Beautiful rolling hills with these terraced fields all up the hills. It was so green and beautiful and felt a little like we had gone back in time. I loved coming around a corner and happening upon a little town on top of a hill, so cool.

Our next stop was a castle (well I guess ruins of a castle) called Monteriggioni. There wasn't much to see there but you could walk on the outer walls (built in the 1200's, impressive all by itself) and get some great views of the surrounding countryside. We got gelato there (of course) and walked the walls before heading out.

After the castle we got to Sienna. This was probably the most stressful part of driving since the roads were a little confusing in town. In Sienna we visited the church (of course), climbed a crazy winding staircase to the top for some amazing views and visited the crypts of the church which again, reminded me of Romeo and Juliette. If I was still teaching I would have taken lots of pictures of the crypts to have my kids imagine what it would have been like for poor Juliette to wake up in that dark scary place!

Sienna didn't live up to the hype for me. Maybe we didn't stay there long enough. We only stayed a few hours and then took off again, after stopping at the grocery store (an adventure in and of itself) for some food to bring to the "villa" where we would be staying.

Our next stop (this was a long day!) was Cortona. I LOOOOOOOVED Cortona! If you have seen or read Under the Tuscan Sun (I haven't but will now). It is where that book/movie took place. It was just this lovely, small, romantic, rustic town. I seriously just loved it. Plus we got there right at sunset so it was just beautiful. We ate at this adorable little restaurant where Aaron had a man crush on our old man server and I just loved every second of it.

After Cortona we had the adventure of finding the "villa". The VERY generous CEO of Aaron's work let us use their Tuscan time share for two nights at a place called Borgo de Valgli. It was literally in the middle of nowhere, about an hour outside Cortona. We drove up this windy two lane road up the mountain, down the mountain, sure we were lost until we came to a tiny little sign that said Borgo de Valgi. Then we turned off the road to drive 2 km on a one lane gravel road and there we were. In the middle of the countryside in a restored 14th century farmhouse! It was amazing! We had our own little apartment with 2 bedrooms and two bathrooms, a kitchen and livingroom, it was bigger than our condo! We got there late so we just headed to bed.

The next day we decided to take as a relaxing day we tried to sleep in (apparently 14th C farmhouses do not have window coverings though so it was kind of bright!), we did some laundry and just hung out by the pool with incredible views (until I got scared away by the plentiful scary bugs, we were really in the country!). We had the salami and cheese and bread we had bought at the grocery store and I fell in love with REAL Italian salami. In the afternoon we went back to Cortona since I had loved it so much, walked around, went to the church and the fortress at the top, had a snack and hung out for a while. We decided to have dinner in the small town that was closest to Borgo di Vagli but when we got there we realized it was a VERY small town and there wasn't a restaurant. Instead we bought some food at the market and Aaron made me an authentic Italian missionary dinner (pasta and red sauce). It was delicious.

The best adventure at Borgo di Vagli was coming home that second afternoon and discovering a HORNET in our apartment. If you have never seen a hornet before and right now you are imagining a bee, try again. It is more like the biggest dinosaur type bee thing you have ever seen. Aaron and I were both FREAKING out. I hid in the bathroom screaming while he tried to get it out of the house. Aaron finally went and got someone at reception who turned out to be some 90 lb English woman who was also scared silly (she had actually been stung by one before so her fear didn't make me feel any better). She though, knew how to open the big front kitchen windows and was able to shoo the hornet out that way. It was pretty hilarious (after I was done screaming).

outside San Gimignano

Aaron on top of the castle walls

The campo in Sienna

Sunset at Cortona

Making breakfast at the farmhouse

Laying our "under the Tuscan sun". I was obsessed with these great lawn chairs that had the adjustable face shield. I need one for the beach.

Borgo di Vagli

Corntona

On top of the fortress in Cortona

Florence

From Riomaggiore we took an early train to Florence, we had to switch trains twice which was kind of a pain but we got some real local flavor, morning commuters, students heading the the university in Pisa and trains so crowded we had to straddle our bags so others could sit next to us (hey, we were lucky not to be standing!).

We arrived in Florence in the morning and found our "hotel". It was pretty sketchy but hey, the price was right, hotels in Florence were expensive (and no Marriott!). Next time (if I say it enough it will happen, right?) I would splurge a little more for one closer to town.

We started off at some gardens in Florence but, personally they weren't very impressive. Add that to the heat and the fact that I had a horrible blister from hiking and it didn't start off as the best day. After the gardens though it got better. We went to the Ufizzi museum where we had a Rick Steve's podcast to "show" us around. That was great because it helped us hit the major works and gave us some history to actually appreciate them, much better than wandering aimlessly around a museum. After the Ufizzi we went to the Academia which is where Michelangelo's David is housed. It was AMAZING! Really much more impressive in person than I ever could have imagined.

We had an ok lunch in Florence but our dinner was great. We had heard Florence was known for their beef so we got fliet and it was awesome! It was another meal to remember. We also did some good shopping in Florence, it was "the" place for leather so of couse I had to buy a few bags, Aaron did a GREAT job of bartering with the vendors! We spent a lot of time people watching as well, which was fun, there was a really funny street preformer in the main piazza that I could have sat and watched for hours.

Our sketchy hotel worked out fine and since we were only staying for one night it wasn't that big of a deal at all. And hey, it has AC which always makes me happy. :)

Aaron in front of the famous bridge the Ponte Vecchio

The gardens had great views of Florence

Fake David statue, the real one was much more impressive, but no photos allowed!

This was our awesome shower in florence. It was really just a shower head on the wall behind the bathroom door. So if someone was showering, you couldn't open the door, well you could but you would have smashed the showering person. Also, although there was a drain on the floor, the water still went everywhere, leaving the floor soaked. It was funny.

Cinque Terre-- Riomaggiore

View from our room in Riomaggiore

The next morning we left Milan on an early train to the Cinque Terre, five towns on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. This was a pretty train ride and I didn't have to sit backwards, yay. I was surprised as we got closer and closer how many more tourists we saw. This place was crawling with American and German tourists. It was interesting as we started to hear English more and more.

When we arrived in Riomaggiore, the southernmost town of the five, we realized we had not made arrangements to meet Claudio, the man we were renting a room from. When we got off the train we tried to call him but couldn't get ahold of him. Unsure what to do, we sort of looked a little lost at the train station with our bags and no place to go. Aaron stopped an old man to ask him a question and the guy ended up being so nice. He pretty much dropped whatever it was he was doing and walked us into the center of town. He yelled across the street to his buddy and then we had two guys helping us look for Claudio. The town itself was TINY, just one main road with a few restaurants and shops and then houses just huddled up against the coast and stacked on top of each other. Anway, eventually we had like three old guys looking for Claudio for us and Aaron finally got ahold of him on his phone. He came and walked us up about 200 stairs to our place, just a little studio apartment but it was perfect and had a great view.

We got a lunch and explored Riomaggiore and then we did the hike to the next town of Monorola, explored that town a little, and did another slightly longer hike to Corneglia and then took the train back to Riomaggiore. We had dinner and I decided to be brave and order sea food, since we were at the sea after all. Well I ended up with an entire sea bass on my plate, eyes, fins, and all! I did manage to eat quite a bit before I got really grossed out.

That night we took the train to Monterosso, the northernmost town and explored. Each town was a little different but they were all so great. We got dessert in Monterosso and took the train back.

The next day we took the train back to Monterosso to do the two hardest hikes, first to Vernazza and then from Vernazza to Corneglia. The hikes were tough! Tons of steps and steep up hills but BEAUTIFUL and green and amazing views. When we finished the first hike and got to Vernazza we got lunch and hung out and I went swimming in the sea. Aaron wouldn't come, I don't know why, but it was so cool and beautiful! Then we did the last hike into Corneglia, which was also tough but beautiful and took the train back again.

That night we got dinner in Monterosso and I had probably one of my best meals from the trip, a local pasta called trofie with pesto--- soooo yummy!

I LOVED the cinque terre, could have stayed here another day or two for sure, it was just beautiful and relaxing.

The many steps up to our room and all over the towns

Riomaggiore from the harbor

Monorola with gelato!

My sea bass-- the whole thing!

Sunset in Riomaggiore

Starting our 2nd day hikes in Monterosso

On the trail with beautiful views

On the trail with Vernazza below

Swimming in the harbor in Vernazza, I promise I wasn't the only one!

Views of Vernazza from the other side as we hiked to Corneglia

On the trail with Corneglia in the background

Venice

From Milan we did a day trip the second day to Venice. We were getting a really good deal at the Marriott in Milan so we decided not to give that up. In retrospect, I would have liked to spend the night in Venice, I loved it!

We took an early train to Venice, my first of many train rides but this one had reserved seating and we had to sit backwards. I HATE facing backwards on anything moving so of course I got sick. After an hour or so we were able to switch seats (phew!).

We got to Venice in the morning and I was immediately in love! It was SO beautiful and I just felt like we were in a movie. We got a snack (pizza of course) and walked around a little. We started to make our way to St. Mark's Square but got pretty lost on our way. We ended up on some really great streets that were beautiful and uncrowded by tourists-- so great!

After we got oriented again we started at the Doge's Palace, it was also great, I loved the gold ceilings, just amazing. Then we went to lunch--amazing lasagna. After lunch we took a gondola ride (Aaron bartered the price down with his great Italian skills).

We ended our day with gelato, the Friari Church, another great walk through some side roads and then took the train back! We had a late dinner in Milan and that was day two!

I really loved Venice and if we do this trip again (ever?) I would like to stay a day or two.

So pretty!

Golden Ceiling in the Doge's Palace

Our gondola ride

I wondered what kids did in this city with only water and streets. Then we saw some kids playing with a kayak right outside their back door. It was a great little peek into Venice life.

Milan

Dear Kate and Riley,
Forgive me if, like I said, I self indulge a little and the next few posts are not going to be in letter form. I think it will be annoying to document our whole trip in terms of "mom" and "dad" so we're just going to be "me" and "Aaron" for the Italy posts.
Love,
Mom

MILAN

We dropped off Zach in Utah and flew from Utah to NY and then from NY to Milan. I thought I was super prepared with my eye mask, ipod with white noise track (calming electric fan), and ambien courtesy of my "supplier". However, none of those things worked and I didn't sleep at all on the 14 hour plane ride!

We arrived in Milan at 9 am, took the train and metro and then walked the rest of the way to the hotel. We checked in, showered and were off. I'm not one to go on no sleep so it was a bit of a challenge for me!

We took the metro to the Duomo area in Milan and walked around the Duomo. It was the first of MANY churches we would visit but it was really cool. Then we went and got lunch, one of the more memorable meals, a DEEP FRIED calzone. I knew that I was going to have to get over my eating issues on this trip if I wanted to enjoy it.

We climbed to the top of the Duomo and got great views of Milan. By the late afternoon I was dying so we went back to the hotel and took a nap. Later we went out again to see the castle, walk around the Duomo area a little more and have dinner. We were so tired we headed back pretty early.

Milan was a good little intro but definitely not the most exciting city in Italy, better days were definitely ahead.

Me on top of the Duomo

Me getting very uncomfortable with an awkward street performer

In front of the Duomo

Inside the Duomo, the inlaid floors were awesome

Aaron at the castle

We're Back!

Dear Kate and Riley,
Well we made it home from Italy safe and sound. It was the trip of a lifetime! Dad and I had an AMAZING time. It was so wonderful to be alone with him and to be in such an amazing romantic place. I loved hearing your Dad speak Italian (it all came back to him quickly) and it was good for me to just have to put all my trust in him that we were taking the right trains and going to the right places, and driving up the right one lane gravel roads! But he did a great job and I couldn't have asked for a better trip. And its a good thing too because after the bill comes for this trip I have a feeling we won't be going on another one for a LONG time!

What about Zachary? Oh, don't worry he was FINE. More than fine. In fact I think he was probably sad that we were back and he had to leave his pack of adoring cousins. I'll admit that it made me want to cry a little this morning when he called Aunt Amy mom and not me but we've got that all straightened out now and I'm glad he had a great time and we didn't have to worry about him at all. Aunt Amy and Aunt Stacy were WONDERFUL to take such good care of him for us.

So, with about 500 pictures to go through I think it will take me a while to post about all of this. I think I will have to do several posts so bear with me for a little self indulgence in the coming days. :)

Love,
Mom

And well, just because it would be lame to make a post with no pictures at all I will post some eating pictures, since there are SO many of those and they probably won't make the cut for the other posts later on...

My first (of many) gelatos. Notice that it is gone (I couldn't wait for Aaron to get out the camera)

Aaron's "wine". It was really just Coca Cola Light (seriously what happened to diet coke? Its NOT the same). I sort of wish I could see how much we spent on coca cola light, those babies were running us like 4 euros a CAN at restaurants (that's more than $5!). By the end of the trip we'd given up on them at restaurants, we just bought them at the grocery store and had them in our hotel room. When you are also paying for your water, we were easily spending $10-15 on drinks at every meal!

Stay tuned for more...

Mother's Day!

Dear Kate and Riley,

Well once again I've been spoiled rotten on Mother's Day. This year we took advantage of an amazing deal and headed out to Palm Springs with our friends the Hunts. Its sad when you go on vacation and get to stay in a place that is bigger than your condo. We actually realized while we were there that if we could get the same rate every night it would be cheaper to live in that big two bedroom two bathroom "vacation villa" than it would be to live in our house!

It was hot but perfect for doing exactly what we wanted to do all weekend-- sit by the pool. The place where we stayed had a baby pool, a water slide, a splash park and a bunch of big pools. Zach was in heaven. Aaron and Wade got to golf one morning (we mom's generously allowed it on "our" weekend) and Katelyn and I got to go to the spa one morning. It was heavenly and just what I needed, a vacation before our vacation! We have been too spoiled lately but that Marriott discount is just too good to pass up some weekends.

I am so grateful for you girls and for Zachary. All I have ever wanted was to be a mom and I am living my dream in real life right now. I miss you and wish you were here with me but the promise that I will be with you again helps me get through. Zachary brings so much joy into our lives every day. His sweet smile and hugs are my favorite. When I get him after his nap and he says "HI!" it melts my heart every time. Thanks for making me everything I've ever wanted to be.
Love,
Mom

Going down the water slide with dad. The first day he was nervous but the second day he would get done and say "more! more!" until Aaron took him again.

Our only group shot and I'm not looking! Oh well. Mother's Day breakfast at Don and Sweet Sue's

Zach and Tessa (or te-ta as Zach would say)

The splash park, also took a little warming up to but you can see he eventually got into it

I just had to have some proof that I was there!